Our day in Hamburg started in an unusual way walking underneath the River Elbe. From the cruise ship terminal, we followed the signs to the Old Elbe Tunnel, a piece of engineering history that’s over 100 years old. Opened in 1911, it was built to connect the city centre with the docks and shipyards on the opposite bank. Stepping inside feels like travelling back in time, the tiled walls, vintage signage and huge lift shafts once used for vehicles are still in place. Today, it’s mainly for pedestrians and cyclists and at just 426 metres long it’s an easy stroll took about 30 minutes from the ship. Knowing that we were literally walking under a working river made it all the more fascinating.
To reach the tunnel from the harbour side, we took the steep staircase down. It felt like it went on forever the sort of descent where you realise halfway down just how far below ground you’re heading. The alternative is to take the historic lifts but heading into Hamburg we decided to go the old fashioned way, earning our coffee stop later.
By the time we made it through, it couldn’t have rained any harder, we were drenched, nothing was open and the streets felt totally dead, we paused for a coffee break in a cosy café the perfect chance to warm up and get out the rain.
We wandered down the main shopping street, with its mix of big name stores and smaller shops, before heading to the Christmas market. Hamburg has several, but we chose the historic market in front of the Town Hall. Wooden stalls strung with twinkling lights lined the square, each one brimming with crafts, decorations and festive treats. The smell of sizzling sausages and spiced almonds filled the air, drawing us in for an early lunch. We sampled bratwurst hot from the grill, crispy potato pancakes and mugs of steaming mulled wine for the grown ups. A local beer was also on offer and it felt fitting to try one here, surrounded by locals enjoying their own seasonal traditions.
The afternoon slipped away easily as we browsed stalls, listened to carol singers and soaked up the warm, festive energy. It was the most lovely first day off the ship, shared with my parents and teens and felt like the perfect way to start our Christmas cruise adventure. Eventually we made our way back to the Old Elbe Tunnel. This time, after a day of walking of we skipped the steep stair climb and took one of the huge, old lifts up to street level a fittingly quirky end to our visit.
We did discover one thing worth knowing before you go: Hamburg is closed on Sundays. Shops, many cafés and other businesses take the day off, so plan your visit around this if you want to make the most of the city’s shopping and dining scene.
Our Family’s Final Thoughts on Hamburg
Would we go back to Hamburg? Probably not in a hurry. Maybe it was because we arrived on a Sunday, when the city felt quieter and some places were closed, but we left feeling like we’d seen the main highlights in our short visit. The harbour views were beautiful, the historic architecture around the Rathaus was stunning and the Christmas markets gave the city a warm, festive glow.
It was definitely worth the stop and we’re glad we experienced walking under the Elbe River and exploring the markets. But for us, Hamburg felt more like a “tick it off the list” destination rather than somewhere we’d return to again and again. A lovely city just one we feel we’ve experienced enough in a single visit.
First glimpse of hamburg from the deck, moody skies and maritime charm
Journey to the other side, walking beneath the Elbe in Hamburg’s century old tunnel
Down we go! The original staircase still leads travellers deep beneath the Elbe
You know you’ve arrived – the entrance to the historic Elbtunnel
Not just the Christmas market, but full on festive stage set under the Rathaus tower
Twinkling lights and festive cheer, Hamburg’s Christmas markets know how to set the mood
Teen approved! Warming up with a quick bite, street food is a must at any German market
Escapes with teens 
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